Way to HK - Morocco Part 4

26 Mar 2017 . category: Travel . Comments
#WayToHK

Day 5: Exploring Marrakech

This was our last full day in Morocco, and we used it to properly explore Marrakech. Sadly things hadn’t gotten off to a good start, as getting to our new hostel the night before was a bit of a disaster. We had foolishly decided to trust Google Maps. Normally, its blue dot is infallible, but in this case, the twisty roads of the souq weren’t mapped. We ended up being led there through a bunch of super sketchy covered alleyways by a random scruffy-looking stranger who insisted we follow him when he saw us asking for directions. I continually hung back, convinced that he was leading us to be mugged in a dark corner. Thankfully, he actually did get us to the hostel, though immediately then demanded payment… I think walking through those alleys is definitely the least safe I’ve felt in quite a long time when traveling, which is to say that I’ve been quite lucky over the last couple of years.

In the morning, we first set off for the the Bahia Palace at the recommendation of a friend from the tour. But sadly it was mysteriously closed. Thankfully, its older and larger counterpart, the El Baci Palace was open. For just $2 admission, it was worth the chance to see the ruins and exhibits. And as I’m writing this post now, I see on the Wikipedia page that it was apparently paid for by a Portuguese ransom.

From here we walked toward the Jardin Magorelle, stopping for lunch along the way. I had my first tangia (not to be confused with tajine), which was quite good. At the Jardin Magorelle, I experienced perhaps the slowest ticket counter service in the world, but at least there was a student discount! Amusingly, as I waited for what seemed like 20 minutes at the counter, some French ladies behind me noticed my Harvard ID, and started talking and gesturing at it. I’m not exactly sure how they thought I wouldn’t understand; even if I didn’t speak French, it’s not like “Harvard” in a French accent is that different-sounding… Regardless, we finally entered the garden, which was honestly a bit disappointing. Perhaps it would be of great interest to folks interested in Majorelle (I understand he’s a somewhat famous painter) or doing a Yves Saint-Laurent pilgrimage (he paid to have the garden restored). For me, it seemed like any other small urban garden, though there was a rather stunning blue building:

After, we cabbed to the Menara Gardens, which were much more grand and beautiful. The highlight was this reflecting pond, surrounded by acres and acres of olive trees:

On our way back to the medina from the gardens, we walked down a main boulevard where we stopped to check out the Carrefour at the Menara Mall, and have dinner at its open-air food court with some fantastic views of the city. It seemed like a mix of tourists, “real locals,” and expats. On the second floor, there was even a big arcade with ice skating and bumper cars. Of course, the best part of it was the: “Naughty Zone” for young children, staffed by two women who jokingly asked us if we wanted to come in to play…

I imagine they didn’t understand why we were laughing so hard… On the (European) first floor, the mall even had an area mocked up to look like the winding souks of the medina, but in a more sterile and peaceful environment. Though, just as I was noting the lack of harassment to Albert, someone started trying to get us to buy his wares.

From here it was basically home and then straight to bed for me, I had gotten sick after too many days of not sleeping well. Up next: Senegal!

Summing up Morocco:

I would wholeheartedly recommend Morocco to anyone hoping to go. Even though I know that I just skimmed the surface, I had a wonderful time. Things that I missed inlude the waterfalls at Essaouria (where some folks on our tour went the next day) and the famous Blue City of Chefchaouen. If you don’t speak French, prepare for some language difficulties, but nothing that hand gestures and general flexibility can’t overcome. Whether the Erg Chebbi tour is worth it is a bit of a tough call. It was certainly a fantastic experience, but the opportunity cost of three days is pretty high, and the creature comforts were rather limited. I would do it again, but just things to keep in mind.

---